The dress was controversial in 1968

An Yves Saint Laurent haute couture dress from fall-winter 1968-1969 has achieved $128,829 against a $17,629-20,342 estimate at an auction in Paris - a rise of 533%.

It was the star of the Danielle Luquet De Saint Germain collection sale at Gros & Delletrez on October 14.

The dress was considered controversial at the time due to its transparency.

A model and former muse of Saint Laurent, Saint Germain is auctioning her huge collection of couture garments over the coming months. Over 12,000 items will be offered in all.

A black satin dress, also by Yves Saint Laurent, similarly outperformed its estimate in this first instalment - making $74,556 over a $13,555-16,267 valuation, an increase of 358%.

It dates to winter of 1979 and features the profile of a woman's face after the work of Picasso.

The collection features rare works by some of the 20th century's greatest fashion designers, and as a result the sale has attracted interest from museums as well as fashion lovers.

A Paco Rabanne fall-winter 1966 coat comprised of leather triangles linked by gold metal nails was another highlight of the sale, achieving $40,687 against an estimate of $5,425-6,103.

Another Yves Saint Laurent dress, in red lame from 1989, made $33,889 against a $6,777-8,133 estimate.

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